Travel in the time of Covid: Colorado Road Trip July 2020

My decision to travel again came from an overwhelming sense of stir crazy with a healthy dose of Groundhog’s day mixed in for good measure. Going from my pre-Covid travel life – getting on a plane to SoCal every other week plus 4-5 trips a year on top of that (like this one to Kauai) – to, well, nothing at all outside the boundaries of where I could drive in under an hour, was getting old. In order to travel again, I knew I’d be taking some risks, but I measured my physical health against the health of a soul that, honestly, craves changing scenery the way a plant craves sunlight. I decided it was time. I believe that the risks, if taken responsibly, were worth it, even if things would look very different in this new normal. So where could I drive, and spend a week, and go somewhere I hadn’t been before, and get away from the brutal heat of the Arizona summer? So I decided to travel in the time of Covid. Let’s do this, Colorado. So a plan came together.

What was different, what was the same

Travel in the time of Covid looked somewhat different and somewhat the same. The major differences I noticed were the mandates for mask wearing were adhered to by all, and there was a real need to book things ahead – from restaurants to pool and park reservations. In Colorado, indoor and outdoor dining were available with limited capacity. The good news is that many places are offering online booking (I use OpenTable app) to make this process easier. Also, many indoor activities were closed, so being good with the great outdoors was a must!

Another difference was within me – I found myself uncomfortable with crowds and attentive to cleanliness in a way I hadn’t been before. I was much more aware of the distance between me and the person next to me. I paid much more attention to see if staff sanitized / cleaned tables and chairs between use and I had my handy alcohol-based hand sanitizing spray always on hand. I also spent time cleaning my hotel room, opting out of housekeeping service and instead bringing my own supplies. I also had gloves and a hand washing regimen for gas stops! A final big difference – while I am a planner by nature, this trip required much more advance planning, research and reserving ahead, by choice and necessity. Gone are the days (for now) of fly-by whimsical decisions the day of. Planning is a must.

What felt the same – based a lot on my choices for locations – was the availability of hotel rooms (albeit with new declared sanitation standards) and dining al fresco (since I adore outdoor dining even under non-pandemic circumstances, having more options for was really wonderful). Yes, this is travel in the time of Covid. And it’s here to stay, I think, at least for longer than we hoped.

Where I Went

Every hotel I stayed in was repeatable and recommendable. Exploring nature was my goal, and I couldn’t have picked better spots. Hiking, biking, walking and generally breathing in of clean, fresh, cool air became the daily regimen.

Colorado Springs

For the first leg, I chose the upscale Garden of the Gods Resort in Colorado Springs (it was my birthday trip so I felt like I could!). Pro Tip – call your resort to book instead of using a booking website. By reserving directly with the hotel I scored a $200 dining credit + $25 gas card for my stay! The Resort required booking ahead for dining and the pool (7 days out from your stay) and I had to diligently call ahead for both. The view was spectacular from the room – direct out over the Garden of the Gods rocks. The outdoor dining spaces also had killer views. The food was wonderful – “the Rocks” was their middle (though still upscale) option for outdoor dining and my birthday dinner was superb – especially their Mascarpone cheesecake and Cotes Mas bottle of house red. I was hooked!

The Resort’s proximity to the Garden of the Gods was perfect for biking right into the park (though the uphill climb back to the hotel was steep!). Note, the park did not require reservations to enter, thus it was very crowded. By planning for very early in the morning or just after sunset, you can beat the crowds and have the park mostly to yourself. Or, for less crowds, check out the Red Rock Canyon Open Space. Beautiful walking and hiking with red rocks, not far from Garden of the Gods by car.

Manitou Springs and Old Colorado City both had many open shops and restaurants and the crowds on the street seemed light (maybe because it was raining). Both are beautiful towns and have historic value as well as retail/dining options! And ohhh the breweries. The cult of Craft beer is alive and well as an art and a science in Colorado Springs. One that I suggest is the Lost Friend Brewing Co. located in a strip mall. Yup. They only serve beer, but the Joint Food Truck was parked right outside…delish.

BEER! from Lost Friends Brewing Co in Colorado Springs

Brussels Sprouts from the Joint Food Truck in Colorado Springs

Estes Park / Rocky Mountain National Park

Another few hours in the car took me into the Rocky Mountain National Park in Estes Park for 3 days in an Airbnb condo on the creek – it was idyllic. I could hear the roar of the water over rocks even with the patio door closed. It had a fully equipped kitchen and I cooked dinner one night and packed lunch for day trips into the park. One night I ordered takeout pizza from Antonio’s Real New York Pizza – wood fired deliciousness!

The hiking and driving through the park revealed endless epic views, abundantly blooming wildflowers, snowmelt-filled lakes, gushing waterfalls that rival Scotland and the fair glens, abundant wildlife (elk, deer, bear, moose) and generally cool temperatures for summer. I had to reserve weeks ahead for timed entrance into the national park using the Recreation.gov app. It was $2 per car per day + an additional entrance fee paid on site. Tip: if you have a National Park Pass (which you can order online here) it covers the additional fee.

Rocky Mountain National Park Hiking Trails

So much to do, so little time! I recommend driving Trail Ridge Road and Old Fall River Road (open July-Sept) – both which take you to the topmost drivable point of 12,183ft (again, seasonally). The Ute Trail proved to be one of the most gorgeous hikes near the top (access from the Tundra Communities Trailhead). The Tundra was an unbelievable mix of barren rockscapes and icy mountain vistas with a bonus wildlife siting – Marmots! Be careful of the elevation changes – I suggest acclimating slowly and being aware of altitude sickness symptoms! And stay hydrated!

My favorite –but a very popular hike –was from Bear Lake trailhead revealing 3 glacier-formed lakes along the way – Nymph, Dream and Emerald. The parking lot for this trail fills fast, but there are offshoot lots and public shuttles running to the trailhead (and they were operating). The trail was crowded but everyone was polite, turning away or stepping off the trail to let groups pass and wearing masks.

Nymph Lake, Rocky Mountain National Park

Wildlife!

I was also fortunate to see some amazing wildlife on this trip! Here are just a few examples!

I also used New Mexico as a stop over on both legs of the journey – Santa Fe and Albuquerque. Stay tuned for a recap of that blog post! For now, enjoy my photo recap of travel in the time of Covid – Colorado Springs and Rocky Mountain National Park in Estes Park.